Saigon and Siam
For my last morning in Hanoi my mother and I wandered along
the river and across to the centre of the small red bridge over the lake where there is a Buddhist
Temple (of course there is...what else
would there be). Anyway, along the way I
was accosted by a television crew and a guy who was a game show contestant who
wanted me to sing him a song and then sign my name. I sang him ‘My Heart Will Go On’ by Celine
Dion. I chose that one because they are
always playing it at the breakfast at our hotel and I assume that every
Vietnamese person must be familiar with it.
He was familiar with it and he even sang along a little bit. I wished him luck and we then he scurried off
at a trot with the entire film crew chasing him. I hope he wins and I guess I will never know.
We had a delicious but expensive ice cream and cappuccino in
a cafe overlooking the impressive traffic by the lake’s roundabout. I took several pictures but they really don’t
do justice to the dance that is traffic in this country.
I left my mother at 11:30 am and I was sad to see our time
together end. Three weeks together from
Pearson International Airport to the Old Quarter of Hanoi. A saying here is “Same Same but Different”
and that is how I would describe travelling with her and then travelling
without her. I have many memories and am
really glad that we did this together.
I arrived at Ho Chi Minh City and took a taxi to my hotel
and the difference between Hanoi and Saigon is immediate and amazing. Right away Saigon struck me as a grand old
dame of a place. It is truly a
world-class city with broad avenues with lights, flowers, lovely grand
architecture, and shining high-end stores.
I did not have a lot of time to explore the place though and that is my
only regret.
I met up with the tour leader Kevin and the other members of
my tour through Cambodia. It has been
strange to go from a small group of older women to a large (15) group of people
of all ages. After our orientation
meeting where I once again got an information overload, we set off for a 30
minute walk along the broad streets to a restaurant in what must be one of many
fun market areas. We were a huge group
and there was another G-Adventures YOLO tour also eating there so it took
forever to order our drinks and food and in fact...the Pho I ordered was not
nearly as good as the one I had in Hanoi.
I think that was the first disappointing meal I have had since I arrived
in SE Asia. Win some lose some and I
think I have won most.
The next day we travelled by private bus to the Mekong
Delta, met up with our local guide Diep, got on our little ferry, and then
started what has been my most touristy day so far. We were taken to one of the fertile islands
in the Delta where our guide showed us varieties of fruit trees and houses, and
we were then treated to a lot more fresh tropical fruit than we could eat while
some people played traditional music for us.
I started to feel like Kathryn Hepburn and it was a little strange.
We then got back on our boat to travel to another island where we saw how coconuts have been used to make all kinds of creative things including chips (made from boiled-down milk), and most amazingly, toffee. The reduce the coconut milk until it is thick and then beat it into a toffee, and then they might mix it with other things like coffee or chocolate....I will watch for that in stores because it is something I have never had before and must be tried by everyone in the whole world. We were then shuttled onto a boat with a man working a long paddle and were slowly rowed back to the boat. We passed by people’s houses along the way and saw kids being ferried (literally) home from school on the mainland by one of these rowers making the return trip back to the candy factory. I tried to imagine what it would be like to live here and this be your daily grind and it was so strange that I had to stop.
We then got back on our boat to travel to another island where we saw how coconuts have been used to make all kinds of creative things including chips (made from boiled-down milk), and most amazingly, toffee. The reduce the coconut milk until it is thick and then beat it into a toffee, and then they might mix it with other things like coffee or chocolate....I will watch for that in stores because it is something I have never had before and must be tried by everyone in the whole world. We were then shuttled onto a boat with a man working a long paddle and were slowly rowed back to the boat. We passed by people’s houses along the way and saw kids being ferried (literally) home from school on the mainland by one of these rowers making the return trip back to the candy factory. I tried to imagine what it would be like to live here and this be your daily grind and it was so strange that I had to stop.
After returning to the hotel, many of us walked to the
nearly infamous Rex Hotel, passed the Oh-so-posh reception, and went up the bar
on the fifth floor. We then paid western
prices for a cocktail and a chance to kick back in one of the best bars in the
world. The western journalist used to
make this their unofficial headquarters as did the CIA. I think my mother would have loved this
because is was the perfect compliment to the Hanoi Hilton experience of only a
few days earlier.
Anyway, I finished my evening eating dinner surrounded by a cast of
thousands in the market area where dozens of tables are set up outside and the
food is kept alive in nearby tanks until they are barbequed on nearby
grills. It was fun and freeing and I
think I spent more money on food and drink that day than I did during my entire
time in Laos. You only live one.
This morning we boarded our public bus to make the long road
trip to Phnom Penh. Immigration at the
Cambodian border was very typically Asian and we sort of stood around in a big
clump while they processed our fees as our passports. I had both hands and thumbs digitally
fingerprinted, and then I was in Cambodia.
Cambodia is poor.
Laos was also poor and may in fact be technically more poor but because
of the nightmare of the 70s, is has not been able to keep it’s farming intact
the same way that Laos has. We had to
cross a river at one point and the whole bus was loaded onto a public
ferry. The locals were packed onto
trucks with chickens and dust, and we were sitting in a comfortable
air-conditioned bus. They were just as
interested in staring at us as we were in staring at them and I kind of regret
not buying some of the creepy food that the women were carrying around on their
heads. Our tour leader Kevin bought some
roasted crickets and I admit that I could not bring myself to eat one (although
some people did)
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